Oct 28, 2013 04:55 PM
(This post was last modified: Oct 29, 2013 09:35 AM by slober.)
TV-Go-Sleep
what is TV-Go-Sleep
TV-go sleep is just like the TV-B-Gone a type of simple universal remote control device for turning off a large majority of the current available brands of television sets.
TV-go sleep is based on the TV-B-gone the test mode in the TV-go sleep has the same function as the TV-B-Gone
Background information:
another name for the TV-be gone is Infrared DOS 🤭
you can encouter some problems in this build but
overall if you don't mess things up it should be pretty easy
Funny moments
ofcourse if you make a device like this you can have your little moment of fun at the local stores,fitness,....
Wireing Explained
[img]http://i2.wp.com/makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tv-go-sleep_schematic.jpg?resize=620%2C465[/img]
What do you need?
first check your components resistors aren't polarized so they should be fine
the 7 segment display can be a bit harder to figure out there are 2 big types of 7 segment displays, the common anode and the common cathode be sure you have the right one
[img]http://www.thelearningpit.com/lp/doc/7seg/7segLed.gif[/img]
if you have the common cathode you're fine just wire it like the picture above
if you have the common anode you need to wire the pin in the middle to +5v instead of gnd
The IRleds are also polarized the short lead goes to gnd the longer lead goes to the resistor and the resistor goes to pin3
[img]http://www.societyofrobots.com/images/electronics_led_diagram.png[/img]
the - or cathode also has a flat side.
The pushbutton
Coding
if you're absolutely sure you wired everything nice clean and checked everything again connect the arduino with your computer and upload the code
everything should work directly out of the box you shouldn't encounter problems here
how does it works?
Encountered problems
only one i connected everything like a brain dead zombie without checking what type of 7 segment i had 1 wire wrong :) wired it for a common cathode the segment i had was a common anode
Enjoy
so enjoy it 👍 you now have you're own TV-Go sleep
if you update the code for the tv-be gone you don't have to deal with the test mode
Sources used:
Spoiler (Click to View)
Updated code for TV-be gone
the code in on the pastebin site is updated for tv-b gone fun i removed all the unnecessary code from the tv-go sleep sketch just press the button and watch it go ^^
You still need the libraries mentioned above
http://pastebin.com/C3eHWF9x
Display layout for https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8546
- what is TV-Go-Sleep
- Funny moments
- Wireing Explained
- Coding
- how does it works?
- Encountered problems
- Enjoy
- Updated code for TV-be gone
what is TV-Go-Sleep
TV-go sleep is just like the TV-B-Gone a type of simple universal remote control device for turning off a large majority of the current available brands of television sets.
TV-go sleep is based on the TV-B-gone the test mode in the TV-go sleep has the same function as the TV-B-Gone
Background information:
Quote:Mitch Altman has run workshops that allow participants to build their own TV-B-Gones using Adafruit Industries' micro controller-based mini-POV kit. Around January 2008, Adafruit Industries released a kit to build an open source TV-B-Gone
another name for the TV-be gone is Infrared DOS 🤭
you can encouter some problems in this build but
overall if you don't mess things up it should be pretty easy
Funny moments
Quote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHpFCVVrsNM
ofcourse if you make a device like this you can have your little moment of fun at the local stores,fitness,....
Wireing Explained
[img]http://i2.wp.com/makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tv-go-sleep_schematic.jpg?resize=620%2C465[/img]
What do you need?
- 8 x 470/560 ohm resistors
- 1x 10K ohm resistor
- 1x 7 segment led display (optional if you alter the code but definitely recommended for your first build)
- 1x push button (or 2 wires just somekind of button ^^)
- 1-???x IRleds
- 1x 33-47 ohm resistor
- arduino (duh...)
- jumper wires
- breadboard
first check your components resistors aren't polarized so they should be fine
the 7 segment display can be a bit harder to figure out there are 2 big types of 7 segment displays, the common anode and the common cathode be sure you have the right one
[img]http://www.thelearningpit.com/lp/doc/7seg/7segLed.gif[/img]
if you have the common cathode you're fine just wire it like the picture above
if you have the common anode you need to wire the pin in the middle to +5v instead of gnd
The IRleds are also polarized the short lead goes to gnd the longer lead goes to the resistor and the resistor goes to pin3
[img]http://www.societyofrobots.com/images/electronics_led_diagram.png[/img]
the - or cathode also has a flat side.
The pushbutton
Quote:Arduino:
When the pushbutton is open (unpressed) there is no connection between the two legs of the pushbutton, so the pin is connected to ground (through the pull-down resistor) and we read a LOW. When the button is closed (pressed), it makes a connection between its two legs, connecting the pin to 5 volts, so that we read a HIGH.
Coding
if you're absolutely sure you wired everything nice clean and checked everything again connect the arduino with your computer and upload the code
Code
[url=http://cdn.makezine.com/make/35/Universal_Sleep_Timer_Arduino_Code.zip]http://cdn.makezine.com/make/35/Universal_Sleep_Timer_Arduino_Code.zip[/url]everything should work directly out of the box you shouldn't encounter problems here
how does it works?
Quote:When you turn on the power switch, the decimal point will flash a few times, and then the display will read “9.”
This corresponds to a sleep delay of approximately 90 minutes.
Each time the button is pushed, the sleep delay is shortened by roughly 10 minutes.
If you press and hold the button, the TV-Go-Sleep goes into test mode, and it will begin sending all of its “off” codes.
Place the device where you plan to leave it for the night, and run the test to verify that the TV turns off.
If the TV is still on when the test is finished, try realigning the device or moving it closer to the television set.
If the TV goes off and then comes back on, it must be responding to 2 different codes being transmitted from the timer.
If that should happen, run the test again, but be ready to press the button when the TV turns off.
This will stop the test at that point. Later, when you’re asleep and the timer runs down, the device will only send codes until it reaches the point where you stopped the test.
If you can’t get the TV to turn off, then its code may not be in the TV-B-Gone library. Check back at righto.com for updated libraries.
Thanks to Donal Morrissey for showing how to put the Arduino into a low-power mode (makezine.com/go/morrissey).
And special thanks to Ken Shirriff, who created the Arduino TV-B-Gone code (makezine.com/go/shirriff) that’s the backbone of this project.
Encountered problems
only one i connected everything like a brain dead zombie without checking what type of 7 segment i had 1 wire wrong :) wired it for a common cathode the segment i had was a common anode
Enjoy
so enjoy it 👍 you now have you're own TV-Go sleep
if you update the code for the tv-be gone you don't have to deal with the test mode
Sources used:
Spoiler (Click to View)
29/10/2013 EDIT
Updated code for TV-be gone
the code in on the pastebin site is updated for tv-b gone fun i removed all the unnecessary code from the tv-go sleep sketch just press the button and watch it go ^^
You still need the libraries mentioned above
http://pastebin.com/C3eHWF9x
Display layout for https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8546
Code
{1,1,1,1,0,0,1}, // 1
{0,1,0,0,1,0,0}, // 2
{0,0,0,0,1,1,0}, // 3
{1,0,0,1,1,0,0}, // 4
{0,1,0,0,1,0,0}, // 5
{1,1,0,0,0,0,0}, // 6
{0,1,0,1,1,0,0}, // 7
{0,0,0,0,0,0,0}, // 8
{0,0,0,1,1,0,0} // 9
};
/*
First number is A second B third C etc...
i have a common anode so i need to pull them down for a "light"
*/
