Disclosure: Nikon people, fuck you. People who disagree with my choices, fuck you. These are tips and my own opinions from experience.
Tips
Let's review the tips.
1. Choose Canon.
2. Purchase body only, fuck the kit lens. I don't care about the process of learning with your 35mm magnified kit lens with a f/3.5. Get a 50mm f/1.8. It's $100...
Get a third party brand. Sigma is made in Japan, they create great lenses. For example? $250 used on Amazon, it's basically brand new... an 18-50mm f/2.8.
18-50mm f/2.8 > 18-55mm f/3.5
50mm f/1.8 > 18-55mm f/3.5
Facts:
What's the best course of learning quickly?
Get down the facts... what is shutter speed? what is aperture? what is depth of field? what is focal length and how does it work? what are the different types of lens? what is mirrorless? what is iso?
Let's go through them:
What's the "f/1.8"?
The f-stop/f-ratio is the aperture. This tells you how much light is being let in.
Photographs are made with light... duh.
f/1.2 --> 1.4 --> 1.8 --> 2.0 --> 2.2 --> 2.5 --> 2.8 --> 3.2 --> 3.5 --> 4.0 --> 4.5 --> 5.0... etc.
Allow me to explain.
Look at it like this:
f/1.2 = large open hole, f/1.4 smaller open hole, f/1.8 smaller open hole, f/2.0 smaller open hole, f/2.2 smaller open hole, f/2.5 smaller open hole...
The higher the number gets, the smaller the hole gets. This "hole" is like the pupil of your eye. The smaller the f-stop you put your camera at (the smaller the aperture) the bigger the hole opens, the more light gets in.
Small hole = less light.
Bigger hole = more light.
More light is needed at night. When you photograph at night, you don't put your camera at f/2.5 if you have the f/1.8 option. When it's night, go f/1.8 to open let as much light in.
Aperture = how much light enters in your camera.
When it's night, you have less light outside than during the day, therefore you need as much light as possible and you go low on aperture.
[img]http://colesclassroom.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/camera-aperture.jpg[/img]
Depth of Field? How? Bokeh?
A "narrow" depth of field basically means that you have a very small portion in a photograph focused, and the rest is "blurred" out.
Narrow:
![[Image: so17r67.png]](https://i.imgur.com/so17r67.png)
A greater depth of field, or a "wide" depth of field is when most of the subject is focused and covered. This doesn't create a blur to the front and back of the photograph.
Wide:
![[Image: 7XA3UZJ.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/7XA3UZJ.jpg)
--
How can you achieve a depth of field? It's by the aperture. The greater depth of field is achieved is if your camera is set at f/5.6 --> f/22
You'll get a lot narrow depth of fields at f/2.8, f/1.8... and the lower. f/1.8 is the pinnacle already, but an f/1.4 or an f/1.2 would just create better, "richer" blur.
Bokeh is the lights blurred in the back of a photograph with narrow depth of field. Bokeh is the best.
[img]http://www.myvichar.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/tumblr_lveau2Hfn71qjh81fo1_500.jpg[/img]
What's the shutter speed?
This is how fast the camera shutters in a photograph. When you decide to put a slow shutter speed, it will keep the sensor open for longer, thus creating an effect like this:
(mine do not steal motherfuckers)
![[Image: 16050452675_00fd0c7e9b_z.jpg]](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/16050452675_00fd0c7e9b_z.jpg)
In basic terms: it's the duration of the shutter. If it's slow, it will keep open for longer. If it's fast, it will open it for a fraction of whatever amount of time, thus letting less light in.
1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250: Very quick shutter. It freezes your subject. If you're taking a picture of a runner, you want to freeze them and not allow any motion blur, thus you need a fast shutter.
1/125 1/60: This is about what you need to take basic photographs in hand without distorting the subject with blur.
1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1 2 4 8: This is very slow... it allows light be soaked in, and creates motion blur as shown in the example above.
What's the ISO
Some cameras have more ISO capability than others, some reaching very high amounts.
ISO is basically the control to sensitivity with the light given in the photograph.
ISO: 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640... etc
The lower the number, the less sensitivity to the light. The higher the number, the more sensitivity, and the more grain to your picture.
All this information works together collectively. You want to determine the best settings for a picture.
You need to choose the appropriate shutter speed for the blur/speed of the subject... the aperture to see how much light you want entered determining the atmosphere...
The best advice would be to go Av (Aperture Priority) which determines the shutter speed for you, and you work the aperture and ISO.)
Focal length
Focal lengths: 18mm... 22mm... 28mm... 35mm... 50mm... 85mm... 105mm...
These are the "zooms" to your lens.
A prime lens means it's plainly whatever the focal length you're given and nothing more.
A 50mm f/1.8 is a prime lens, because it doesn't zoom to 55mm nor 35mm.
The different types of lens:
Kit lens - the shitty lens that comes with the DSLR.
Telephoto lens - this lens zooms... an 85-200mm is for wildlife photographers, or sport photographers.
This focal length is very large (200mm) -- it zooms in very very close, so you don't have to be near the subject.
Macro lens - this is for up close photography... the typical water drop photos you see.
Wide angle lens - Anything "under 50mm" technically. 50mm is the focal length your eyes are at, technically. A 35mm is generally wide, an 18mm is very wide. You capture a larger surrounding.
When a lens goes from 50mm to 85mm, it is "zooming." This is a magnification process to get closer to the subject.
If you want help choosing between two cameras PM me.
Tips
- Nikon or Canon is your choice. They're "remotely similar" and you will need to choose your own path. I am not deciding for you (choose Canon motherfucker)
- When purchasing a camera, buy it from Craigslist or eBay. Do not purchase kit lens. PURCHASE THE BODY ONLY. Now I know people are going to heavily disagree with this but the facts are: kit lens are sheer garbage... body only is going to be cheaper by default, and purchase a prime lens or something of worth. This variates through budget though, so look below.
- Buy a 50mm. 50mm is perfect for a lot of things, and they are cheap and have a fast shutter speed and great depth of field. BOKEH!!
Let's review the tips.
1. Choose Canon.
2. Purchase body only, fuck the kit lens. I don't care about the process of learning with your 35mm magnified kit lens with a f/3.5. Get a 50mm f/1.8. It's $100...
Get a third party brand. Sigma is made in Japan, they create great lenses. For example? $250 used on Amazon, it's basically brand new... an 18-50mm f/2.8.
18-50mm f/2.8 > 18-55mm f/3.5
50mm f/1.8 > 18-55mm f/3.5
Facts:
What's the best course of learning quickly?
Get down the facts... what is shutter speed? what is aperture? what is depth of field? what is focal length and how does it work? what are the different types of lens? what is mirrorless? what is iso?
Let's go through them:
What's the "f/1.8"?
The f-stop/f-ratio is the aperture. This tells you how much light is being let in.
Photographs are made with light... duh.
f/1.2 --> 1.4 --> 1.8 --> 2.0 --> 2.2 --> 2.5 --> 2.8 --> 3.2 --> 3.5 --> 4.0 --> 4.5 --> 5.0... etc.
Allow me to explain.
Look at it like this:
f/1.2 = large open hole, f/1.4 smaller open hole, f/1.8 smaller open hole, f/2.0 smaller open hole, f/2.2 smaller open hole, f/2.5 smaller open hole...
The higher the number gets, the smaller the hole gets. This "hole" is like the pupil of your eye. The smaller the f-stop you put your camera at (the smaller the aperture) the bigger the hole opens, the more light gets in.
Small hole = less light.
Bigger hole = more light.
More light is needed at night. When you photograph at night, you don't put your camera at f/2.5 if you have the f/1.8 option. When it's night, go f/1.8 to open let as much light in.
Aperture = how much light enters in your camera.
When it's night, you have less light outside than during the day, therefore you need as much light as possible and you go low on aperture.
[img]http://colesclassroom.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/camera-aperture.jpg[/img]
Depth of Field? How? Bokeh?
A "narrow" depth of field basically means that you have a very small portion in a photograph focused, and the rest is "blurred" out.
Narrow:
A greater depth of field, or a "wide" depth of field is when most of the subject is focused and covered. This doesn't create a blur to the front and back of the photograph.
Wide:
--
How can you achieve a depth of field? It's by the aperture. The greater depth of field is achieved is if your camera is set at f/5.6 --> f/22
You'll get a lot narrow depth of fields at f/2.8, f/1.8... and the lower. f/1.8 is the pinnacle already, but an f/1.4 or an f/1.2 would just create better, "richer" blur.
Bokeh is the lights blurred in the back of a photograph with narrow depth of field. Bokeh is the best.
[img]http://www.myvichar.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/tumblr_lveau2Hfn71qjh81fo1_500.jpg[/img]
What's the shutter speed?
This is how fast the camera shutters in a photograph. When you decide to put a slow shutter speed, it will keep the sensor open for longer, thus creating an effect like this:
(mine do not steal motherfuckers)
In basic terms: it's the duration of the shutter. If it's slow, it will keep open for longer. If it's fast, it will open it for a fraction of whatever amount of time, thus letting less light in.
1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250: Very quick shutter. It freezes your subject. If you're taking a picture of a runner, you want to freeze them and not allow any motion blur, thus you need a fast shutter.
1/125 1/60: This is about what you need to take basic photographs in hand without distorting the subject with blur.
1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1 2 4 8: This is very slow... it allows light be soaked in, and creates motion blur as shown in the example above.
What's the ISO
Some cameras have more ISO capability than others, some reaching very high amounts.
ISO is basically the control to sensitivity with the light given in the photograph.
ISO: 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640... etc
The lower the number, the less sensitivity to the light. The higher the number, the more sensitivity, and the more grain to your picture.
All this information works together collectively. You want to determine the best settings for a picture.
You need to choose the appropriate shutter speed for the blur/speed of the subject... the aperture to see how much light you want entered determining the atmosphere...
The best advice would be to go Av (Aperture Priority) which determines the shutter speed for you, and you work the aperture and ISO.)
Focal length
Focal lengths: 18mm... 22mm... 28mm... 35mm... 50mm... 85mm... 105mm...
These are the "zooms" to your lens.
A prime lens means it's plainly whatever the focal length you're given and nothing more.
A 50mm f/1.8 is a prime lens, because it doesn't zoom to 55mm nor 35mm.
The different types of lens:
Kit lens - the shitty lens that comes with the DSLR.
Telephoto lens - this lens zooms... an 85-200mm is for wildlife photographers, or sport photographers.
This focal length is very large (200mm) -- it zooms in very very close, so you don't have to be near the subject.
Macro lens - this is for up close photography... the typical water drop photos you see.
Wide angle lens - Anything "under 50mm" technically. 50mm is the focal length your eyes are at, technically. A 35mm is generally wide, an 18mm is very wide. You capture a larger surrounding.
When a lens goes from 50mm to 85mm, it is "zooming." This is a magnification process to get closer to the subject.
If you want help choosing between two cameras PM me.
![[Image: empire.gif]](https://i.tiny.re/empire.gif)
![[Image: SeanTaylor_Sig_hack.png]](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/717402968718311514/719661227009245194/SeanTaylor_Sig_hack.png)